How to Build a Duck Nesting Box

Type of Wood Needed

Cedar lumber is recommended because it is naturally resistant to weather and insects. You can also use any materials you have available such as pine or plywood. The box uses 10.5 linear feet of 1" X 10" (3/4" think by 9 1/4" wide) lumber that is rough on one side (for the inside of the box).

Finishing

It is not recommended to apply a finish to Cedar boxes, but a finish might extend the life of a plywood box.

If you decide to apply a finish to your nest box, use a nontoxic wood preserver or a light shade of an earth tone paint. The ducks will find your box by seeing the contrast in color caused by the entry hole. DO NOT apply finish inside the box.

Cavity nesting ducks do not carry nesting materials. It's important to help them out by placing 4 to 6 inches of wood shavings in the bottom of the box. You can find wood shavings at your local pet or farm supply store. DO NOT us sawdust, it can suffocate ducklings.

Maintenance

Every year, in the fall after the nesting season has completed or in the winter, clean out old nesting material from the box and replace it with a fresh layer of wood shavings. The annual cleaning needs to be a part of your long-term maintenance commitment once you place you nest box.

Construction of Nesting Box

Tools needed

	Handsaw or Table saw
	Drill and 1/2" bit
	Jigsaw
	Screwdriver
	Sandpaper
	Pencil
	Measuring tape
	Straight-edge

1. Measure and cut your wood to produce the six pieces. Number the pieces as shown. See material measurements.
2. Attach the back (1) to the side (2) using four screws fastened from the back of the box. See exploded view.
3. Drill five 1/2" drainage holes in the floor (3). Attach the floor by fastening two screws through the back and two through the side.
4. Draw the entry hole on the front (4) using a pencil (4 1/2" x 3 1/2" oval). Drill a pilot hole and cut out the entry hole using a jig saw. See details view.
5. Score the inside face of the front (4) using a saw. The horizontal slots will provide toeholds when the ducklings climb out. See detailed view

Predator Guards

A predator guard will help to improve the chance of a successful hatch by preventing egg-eating raccoons from entering your nest box.

Steel Sheet Sandwich:

1. 36" X 49" sheet of 28 gauge steel
2. Fold the sheet in half along the 49" length, creating a front and a back, each 24" wide.
3. Along one 36" side, make a 1" fold towards the inside center
4. Drill two holes 34 " apart (see diagram)
5. Place your guard so it surrounds the pole or tree trunk. Slip the unfolded side under the 1" fold. Using vice-grips, bend the corners in to lock these pieces and prevent the guard from opening.
6. Pole Mount: bolt the guard into place about 2" below the nest box.
7. Tree Mount: nail the guard in place - if the tree is alive, check the guard often to ensure tee growth hasn't popped the guard off.

Plastic Pipe Guard:

Metal or plastic pipe (stove pipe, sewer pipe) drilled at the top and bottom and bolted to the tree or pole makes an effective predator guard. To prevent small rodents from crawling through, place a crumpled piece of chicken wire between the pole and the guard.

Plastic "Crazy Carpet" Guard:

A new use for children's inexpensive plastic snow riders located in any toy store. Wrap the carpet around the tree and tack it in place. Be sure to provide room to grow if you place this guard is on a living tree.

Nest Box Maintenance

A Long Term Commitment

Once a cavity nesting bird starts using your box, you'll likely see many broods raised over the years. Nesting sites for these birds are limited in number. When they find a good nesting site, there is a very good chance they'll return in following years. When you put up a nest box you are committing yourself to maintaining that box. Fall and winter are the best times to remove old nesting materials, tighten any loose screws and mounts, and add new wood shavings.

If you don't have any ducks using your box over the summer, don't worry. Waterfowl biologists have seen waterfowl migrating in the fall scope out potential nesting sites for nest spring. This too is a good reason to keep your boxes in top condition. You never know when somebody might be popping in!

Where to Find Tenants

To increase the chances of your nest box being used by waterfowl, it should be located in an area attractive to cavity nesting ducks. You'll see these birds using wooded wetlands that contain water year round or, at least, throughout the summer. You'll also see them using trees along riverbanks and lake shorelines.

Positioning You Nest Box

Nest boxes can be mounted on tree trunks or on steel poles beside the water or above the water.

Good Placement: a dead tree at the water's edge

Better Placement: a solid dead tree in the water

Best Placement: Boxes on poles near standing, flooded, dead trees

Live trees can be used for mounting boxes, but keep a close eye on your box. Growing trees may loosen mounts and make boxes less attractive to the birds.

Tree Trunks: Live and dead trees are suitable. If beavers are about, don't place nest boxes on poplar or white birch trees. Beaver eat these trees.

Steel Poles: Make sure the poles are fixed solidly in the soil, or marsh bottom, to ensure that the nest boxes are stable. Drill two holes in this pole to accommodate a predator guard (see below)

Boxes should be placed above typical high water levels and at a height that will allow you to access the box for monitoring and maintenance (about 4 to 6 feet above land or water). In terms of distance inland, try to keep your box close to the water.

Clear an unobstructed flight path to your nest box by removing branches that might be in the way.

The entrance hole to the box should face the water.

You can tip the box forward a little bit to help the ducklings reach the entrance.

This information has been compiled from the Nest Box Guide for Waterfowl, by Ducks Unlimited and the Canadian Wildlife Service. environment Canada; and a Conservator Article (vol. 19, no. 3) by Earl Rooney.